Official Haltech Forums

Hi, ive recently wired up a Haltech e8 to a silvertop 4age andjust have have a few things id want to clarify

Firstly ive just set up base timing (timing lock 10 degrees) through ignition setup in halwin as well as rotating the dizzy/cas and got it dead on 10 degrees with trigger angle 72 degrees and tooth offset 10. But after having a quick look around online at what other people got there tooth offset was more around 1-5 so it occured to me how do you know whether youve set up the 10 degrees BTDC on the right stroke? Im assuming that on the 24 tooth trigger one full turn of the crank will be 12 teeth so if i add/subract 12 off id be at 22 teeth...even further away ?

second thing is just about entering in sensor values in halwin... ive figured out resistances for a wide range of temperatures for the air temp sensor and coolant temp sensor and got a nice curve when i graph it in excel. but when i enter the values into halwin after i click OK it changes the limits to -40 degrees and 127 degrees. i just guessed what the values would be at these temps from looking at the graph but is there a way of avoiding having to do this? as its pretty innacurate at the moment (15 degrees correlates to about -6 degrees on the coolant temp for example). It seems a pretty hit an miss way of setting up the limits just by guessing and checking?

thanks

To check if you are on the correct crank phase set the ignition temporarily to Direct Fire.

If you have a distributor you should only see spark at the spark plug lead for cylinder 1. If it is on another cylinder you are synced to the wrong cylinder.

If you have waste spark the engine will start on 2-cylinders. Unplug the injector for cylinder 1 and if the engine drops RPM and tries to stall you have it set correctly. If it does nothing then you are 360 degrees out.

In both cases for an E/8, E11v2, or Sport ECU you will move the tooth offset to get the correct cylinder firing. So if you have a 24x distributor pickup (or 12x on the crank) you will move the offset in increments of 6 teeth (24 divided by 4 cylinders) to shift which cylinder is phased. When you are done set it back to your correct ignition type in confidence that your injection is correctly phased.

I hope that makes sense.


No easy way to do the sensor cal sorry.

Hi Matthew thanks for the reply. I should of clarified im using Yaris 1nz coil on plugs and had direct fire selected.

I havent managed to get the car started yet and 99% sure ignition was out by one rotation as all it would do is pop and bang and spit flames out of everywhere. So I changed it to 22 teeth offset and have found that gave me no spark at all. 21 teeth offset with a higher trigger angle got me on the 10 degrees mark but when i plugged in the other spark plugs and coils it stopped sparking. same for other higher tooth offsets as well.

How come it doesnt seem to want to spark with these teeth offsets? the trigger signal seems to be fine its a consistent 24 'triggers since last home. (trigger and home filters are on 2 and gain is 0 for both) and was always checking timing on #1 cylinder

UPDATE: got it running and idling smoothly. ended up using the other home tooth (g1 instead of g2) kept the trigger settings the same in the ecu

Probably limitations on the old hardware. It is too long ago to remember if there was a tooth offset limit or which numbers are invalid. But you were correct to switch which G sensor to use to move it 360 crank degrees.