Car Wont Idle After Haltech fixed My ECU

[familia]

Hi all I sent my haltech away the other week as the car wouldnt idle without my foot on the throttle and when i did this it was miss firing.

So i checked everything i could even put it on a osilloscope and the test came back that it had no output from ignition 1 to my msd unit. So i sent it to halteck. Now i have just recieved it back after $166 and a week wait and fitted it back in my car only to find out that it still wont IDLE without throttl but the miss is gone

I am very angry as this should all be fixed and running well like it did before the ECU broke!!!

What the fuck do i do now im so over it!!

Its an sr20det and it doesnt run cold start or a a idle control valve. and there is nothing wrong with the sensors on my car!!

[BRIAN MP5T]

Sounds like you have to invest more time in verifying your install.

It isn't Haltechs fault that the car does not run if there is a problem with the wiring.

[Ignition]

check everything else in the engine system, it is not uncommon to have multiple faults. It is natural to assume the one fault you fixed is the only one, but start working through things and check everything. scope idle control valve, log everything and see if anything doesn't look right. I'd say you have a few clues seeing as you know how to use a scope, let us know how you get on

[familia]

Im a diesel Mechanic so i do this all day. The car did idle and run and has been runing this halteck for a while now. But the last time i drove it on the way home it stalled at idle than yit wouldnt idle unless your foot was on the throttle and it missed so i checked everything and it was the haltech not sending signal to my MSD for spark on number one coil so i sent it away to haltech and got it back so therefore it should be running fine like it did before it broke thats why im angry!!

The car doesnt run an idle control valve or cold start there for the idle is only controlled bythe ecu.

[Ignition]

check for other issues then, throttle stop moved etc. Recheck base timing, start with the basics. I know it gets easy to jump to possible faults first though, am guilty of it myself.

[familia]

Yea I no what u mean but I have checked it all down to even checking for spark while cranking. I just won't it running again so over it just sitting there. It's either the ecu or maybe it's lost an idle tune map if there is such a thing.

[Ignition]

hmm odd. check your tune, or reload from a previously saved one incase it is corrupted perhaps (Save current one in ECU first).
check TPS calibration, possibly the throttle stop has moved and closed the butterfly a touch more. Check if there is excessing movement in the throttle while reading 0% (Idle).

[familia]

This is bullshit. The car ran and idled before the ignition trigger for coil one fucked up so I sent the ecu to haltech and so now it should work like before. I have triple checked everything even reseting the throttle postion in the ecu and still nothing. I'm not impressed with the customer service I am getting when I rang the tech line. I just want the car tanning again it's not that much to ask!

[Ignition]

what is Lambda/AFR doing.

[familia]

I have no idea what that is? How do u check the air fuel ratio? I'm still waiting for my old maps so I can reload them. This shouldn't b able to happen but.

[familia]

AFR is at 459mV while online with engine not running.

[Ignition]

I mean at idle, what is the mixture when it tries to stall and you keep it running by holding the throttle open... you need a wideband O2 sensor and controller/display to determine mixture.
You need to check EVERYTHING. Start with the basics and stop abusing people who are trying to help you. Treat it as a fresh install and work through every single thing the Haltech is attached to. Then check everything mechanical, like comrpession, timing is zero'd correctly, map line is connected to the sensor/ECU. Pull the sparkplugs out, are they white, or black, or another colour? Without a Wideband O2 setup you are stabbing in the dark a little, do you konw anyone you can borrow one from, or have the tuner you use have a look at it?

[familia]

The fact is that it should ran exactly as it did before the haltech broke that is the only thing that's changed. So there for it has to b something with the ecu. I will continue to check everything like I did to find the first place

[Ignition]

the haltech broke that is the only thing that's changed.

You don't know that. Assumption is the mother of all f@%k-ups.
Let us know what you find after checking everything.

[BRIAN MP5T]

The fact is that it should ran exactly as it did before the haltech broke that is the only thing that's changed. So there for it has to b something with the ecu. I will continue to check everything like I did to find the first place

Umm, NO...

There are too many things that can be wrong here to just assume that it's the ECU only at fault.

By the sounds of it, you didn't even bother to reload the map after you got the ECU back.

Personally, it sounds like you are just pissed off and looking to lay the blame on Haltech.

1st, The Customer service is AWESOME so don't start talking crap about them.
2nd, It does not matter what you do as a job, for all we know you could be a crappy mechanic, HOW CAN YOU NOT KNOW WHAT AN AFR IS.

AFR is Read from 10 - 20, not in Mvolts

Go back and load the map, check the base timing and verify that the idle step motor is hooked up.

If the timing is off, then no shit the car will stall
If the Fuel is off, then no shit the car will stall
If there is a Vac leak, then no shit the car will stall