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Today I was able to install all three WBO2 sensors (Thanks very much to Haltech USA!)after getting a thread chaser to clean up the one that was never cleaned two years ago when it was welded and bolted shut with a cap.

So I activated the coolant temp map for the first time and applied the corrections that I was able to get with some experimenting with the overall trim.

The car started perfectly on the second revolution even when only 20 Deg C this morning and runs about 13.50 AFR. +- 0.25 AFR.

Crap does it stink, but it sounds awesome to hear it running. I was happy to see that eventually all three AFR readouts were almost identical, I will calibrate them to read identical.

I have to trim that AFR back today, but I will probably run the car up to 50 Deg C,

(My engine does not have a thermostat so that is the normal operating temp, Fan kicks on at 45 and off at 40) and then level out the AFR with the base map, then go back and correct the Coolant and post start map.

The engine now totally holds 1000 RPM solid. I can see the Step motor position cycling up and down by +- 1 or 2 Steps after just 15 seconds of running. No oscillation at all in the idle even with the 550cc injectors likely due to the fuel being delivered upstream of air rushing into a cylinder, rather than pooling in the manifold.

Still waiting for the alternator, so I will probably move the front half of the car out of the garage and connect it to my other car for power. Even with the two dyno fans running on the radiator from outside, it's still too much inside the garage. I don't feel like killing myself with Carbon Monoxide just yet..

I'll try to nail down all the idle settings and the warm and cold start settings this morning.

I should get the alternator back on Wed, so I can take it to the street and start working on the higher RPM Stuff.

Transient Throttle Settings...

Upon the initial start from a stop sign, the AFR shoots down as the initial vac is applied but the RPM does not have time to increase just yet (Normal)

The indicator of where the fuel calculation basically shoots towards zero PSI. (right) and the car leans out.

Should this extra fuel I require be coming from the base map, or is this something in Transient Throttle?

The Map is tuned for steady load all over where the indicator moves to (1000-1200 RPM -10 to 0 Vac), but it still goes lean and the car obviously exhibits a lack of normal power on takeoff.

Also, in General does anyone have any ideas on where to start? My operating temperature is never above 60 - 70 Deg C

A Question I sent to Eric@Haltech USA


I am trying to figure out if something shroud be tuned for in the base map or the throttle pump.
If you could give me some input that would be great. (Reference the link)

Note: I Have the Coolant correction, Post Start and Prime Pulse finally perfect. The car will start at any engine temp on two rotations and idle all day long.
The Idle control is awesome.

Also:

When I let off the gas, the deceleration map cuts in perfect with the delay then the AFR goes lean, the injectors can no longer be heard, the Dials for Injector time go off. Everything is behaving very stock which is great.
Upon return, the deceleration cut shoots very lean and then returns over to normal over 1 second.
I have tried to add fuel upon return, it still goes lean, but it's like it takes a second for normal fuel o return. If the fuel on return is set at a normal amount, then it maintains AFR for a short time then goes lean and returns after a total of 1 second.
Even a Huge amount of fuel will take a second to normalize, If it's set like overkill that it shoots rich very quick and then lean then balances out again after one second.
Is there a way to make it shoot less of a pulse over a longer period of time, lets say 0.5 - 0.75 seconds.

I was reading about all these setting and have made a couple of trials. Most have been successful except this one.

Just an update on the transient throttle.

I reduced the length of the Vac line to the manifold and increased it's size.

This almost completely removed the need for transient throttle. It makes only small applications of fuel and most of the fuel is being deliverd on time with the base amp.

After the change, I was able to reduce the output and sensitivity of it to maintain AFR.

Had a Question from a forum member about the installation/modification of the timing system.



36-1 +HOME

The Home has to happen on the Cam 5 teeth before the missing tooth occurs on the crank on the rotation before cylinder 1 is ready to begin it's cycle.

By setting the timing gear like this, it will place the HOME in the correct location. Install as per normal using the new timing mark.

I used a 2 Tooth and 70 Degrees offset.

Let me know if there are problems.

If you have this car and live in he United Stares or Canada, Swap out your plugs to the ones that are used in Japan.





They are long reach and net a better burn.

I would say its very risky fitting a projected nose plug to a boosted car like yours. Same heat range or not....they will run hotter and more risk of problems.

stevieturbo wrote:I would say its very risky fitting a projected nose plug to a boosted car like yours. Same heat range or not....they will run hotter and more risk of problems.

It's not that they are longer than the design, its that the ADM car was shipped with plugs that don't fully sit in the chamber, This literally only makes the situation normal, not more pronounced.

I understand sequential, but wasted spark really makes no difference either way...

SlickNick wrote:I understand sequential, but wasted spark really makes no difference either way...

You didn't really think that through did you.


By getting rid of the wasted spark. My coils will fire half as often. They are under much less load and have twice as much time to charge... DUH.

I can run the same spark at half the load and heat... or run a slightly more powerful spark without any concern of damaging the coils.

In the real world (depending which coils and the application) it often doesn't make any difference however. All valid points Brian but they often don't factor in a lot of setups, thats all.

Ignition wrote:In the real world (depending which coils and the application) it often doesn't make any difference however. All valid points Brian but they often don't factor in a lot of setups, thats all.

I'm not speaking about a performance improvement in HP... I was basically saying that firing a Coil twice as often for nothing must have a negative effect on it's longevity (Especially if there is no reason to fire it Wasted Spark)

Wanted to close the thread off by saying that the RA-10 made the RPM signal totally flat. It is the Only Way To Go IMO.

So Brian, after a full year, your saying that the RA-10 is better than the onboard reluctor adapter in the Sport series ecu's?? I recall at the launch of the Sport series talk was that the onboard adapter was far more advanced than the RA-10.

BRN12345 wrote:So Brian, after a full year, your saying that the RA-10 is better than the onboard reluctor adapter in the Sport series ecu's?? I recall at the launch of the Sport series talk was that the onboard adapter was far more advanced than the RA-10.

I don't wish to counter what was said, because I am not a tech. I will say that the VR signal that used to have to travel over one meter into the car, is only 12Cm to the RA-10.

I believe that this alone is the likely reason for my noticed improvement.

The VR seemed to work as well (Seamless Even) just that when viewed on the log, the VR was a more jagged line, whereas the Hall Effect was almost flat.