Elite 1500. Just ordered have a few questions.

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LotusEsprit1000
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 5:39 pm

Elite 1500. Just ordered have a few questions.

Postby LotusEsprit1000 » Sun Sep 23, 2018 9:15 am

I have read through what I could find and have watched the Haltech programs. But I forget things and this is my first install of an ECU

Now I just ordered the 1500 today over the 1000 because it has better engine protection and mapping capibilities than the latter if I am not mistaken.

Can I download the software in advance and start setting up for my engine?

I am mostly not using the old sensors from my motor : Lotus 910 4 pot Batchfire FI.

Now I still need to buy a trigger wheel and mount it to my flywheel pulley. Is there a cheap and common unit?
I will also need to buy some Hall sensors. I thought I had some but I am now thinking they are reluctors and would rather not go that route.
Can the cam run a single tooth or is something like three or more better? ( What do you guys suggest?)
I am running Injector Dynamics ID1050 injectors. Is there anything I should be sure of in the settings for this?
I need a: oil pressure and knock sensor. What ones are good to use? I assume any peizo for knock and oil pressure is any pressure sensor.
I also have a thermistor style temp sensor that came with the daviscraig ewp115 water pump I am going to run. Is that usable?
I have a standard bosch 4 wire 02. I can use that until I get my wideband right?

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Drwaffles
Posts: 68
Joined: Sat Jul 28, 2018 11:51 pm

Re: Elite 1500. Just ordered have a few questions.

Postby Drwaffles » Sun Sep 23, 2018 11:30 am

Congrats, they're a very flexible ECU. The staff sometimes get a hard time on the forums, but they're very helpful and keep adding new features over time.

Absolutely you can, it's recommended to already have a base map before you wire in the ECU (Other than Power+ earth)
Otherwise it might have 12V going to pins that you don't want it to etc. Download the software, and start exploring and planning what you need wiring wise and which pins will do what. Once you're reasonably happy, upload it to the ECU (And i'd recommend disabling near everything again until it's fully installed)

Not much advice I can give on the trigger question I'm afraid, somebody else will have to chime in there.

As a rule, hall effect are much better if you can. Even though it's more work to setup, it's a cleaner more accurate signal (And you don't need to shield it)

somebody else will have to chime in regarding your cam tooth question.
I would think the more the merrier, but if you kept it batchfire it wouldn't matter all that much, could be wrong.

ID are great, they give P&P data that you can mostly plug straight into the Haltech.
Low IPW data, flow rate based on differential pressure, latency etc.

Oil pressure sensors, anything reputable. Remember that electronics hate heat and vibration, they get both on a motor. Give it a chance of survival by using a good brand (And remote mount if you can)
As for which one, personally I'd get a Haltech branded one if you can, At least that way you don't have to scale the thing manually and they come with the connector.

Knock sensor.. You can buy from Haltech also, or get one from a wrecker from a new car. Just keep in mind that second hand parts there's always a risk. And remember to shield the wires to the knock sensor.

90% of ECT temp sensors are thermistor type. You can use it, but you need to use it on an AVI that has a pull-up function (Not all of them do)
And you'll need to manually scale the sensor.
I've done this for my oil temp, Air temp, and fuel temp sensors. This involves sitting outside with a cup of boiling water/oil (Higher boiling point) and a K-type (Or known accurate sensor) and recording the voltage/resistance as temperature changes.
Again, advantage of using haltech brand sensors is they've already scaled them and you can just load it in the software.

That depends, is it a 4 wire Wideband or narrowband sensor? Bosch make both.
Wideband 4 wire, won't work as far as I know.
Narrow band will work on a non-pull up AVI but they're quite slow and it's not really recommended to let that do high load learning for you.
If you're happy to putter around until you get the wideband (Or you get it tuned by a shop) then it'll be fine.

But just a tip, do it all in one go.. That way your wiring can stay neat. If you wire it in, and keep going back to add things and change things then it'll get messy; that's how I kept mine neat.
Image

Second tip, PLAN and DON't rush.

Third tip, Take your time and have fun :)

JimKden
Posts: 389
Joined: Wed Jan 12, 2011 2:28 am

Re: Elite 1500. Just ordered have a few questions.

Postby JimKden » Sun Sep 23, 2018 10:56 pm

Only one cam tooth is needed. It's only function is to signal a cycle reset. I can be anywhere in the rotation.
I keep the QuickStart off until the crank sync for timing is set. Otherwise it is trying to start in semi-sequential mode and the timing setting can be 360deg off.
Knock sensor setup is not a plug and play function. The sensor needs to be calibrated for your engine and then an engine noise signature table needs to be created.

LotusEsprit1000
Posts: 18
Joined: Sat May 19, 2018 5:39 pm

Re: Elite 1500. Just ordered have a few questions.

Postby LotusEsprit1000 » Sat Sep 29, 2018 11:07 am

Thanks both of you. It helps HEAPS! I will get the software today. I looked in one of my bins O audi parts and looked in my lotus stuff and I have.

4x Audi 4 pin stick coils. I have more actually.

1x 4 wire narrow band O2... For now until I can afford the controller. I have a 5 wire wideband on the shelf.

New ground and hot cable.

4 wire temp sensor from the audi... But I have a 2 wire from my daviscraig I think I will use.

The connectors for the stick coils. ( From what I have read/ corresponded with Mat is they should not need any special hardware.)



Missing/ not yet found are:

Hall sensors x2. I want to run sequential. The whole point of the elite is to smooth out the engine. I do not wish to run a reluctor.

Knock sensor ( I didnt know I need a noise profile. Looks like I will keep it to 8PSI or lower until I can dyno it.

Issues:
I dont know what to do with the IAC. I was having trouble and I am not sure if it was the ECU or the servo. I am thinking about setting it to let the car idle in this cooler weather and unplugging it/ disabling it for now.

Oil pressure senders are through the roof expensive!!! From any source they are not cheap.

Also I dont know the status of my haltech. I used my wifes card and it was never charged... Order is all in her name... How long did it take to get yours?


On a good note I am prepping the block / wiring while I wait for parts and the haltech.


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