Motornic 60-2 rpm varies


Motornic 60-2 rpm varies

Postby GVR41700 » Wed Jul 18, 2007 6:29 am

i've got this 2.3 ford turbo with the e6x. I am using a motornic style trigger wheel with the 60-2 wheel I got from electromotive. I'm using this instead of the one in the dist because the one in the dist was not adjustable. I have the gap for the sensor set at .010. The problem I'm having is that the rpm fluctuates while I'm cranking it over and trying to sync the timng of the haltech with that of the engine. When I had the gap set at .030 the timing would fluctuate from 325 to 1250 or higher. I droped the gap down to .020 and it fluctuated from 325 to 950. Now with the gap at .010 it goes from 325 to 725. Is this normal to fluctuate while cranking? What else should I try to get a more consistant signal? I don't want to make the gap any closer than it is now.


Re: Motornic 60-2 rpm varies

Postby jdzumwalt » Wed Jul 18, 2007 8:47 am

I'm going to help you because I just went through the same problem and I understand the nightmare. Set your gap at .020-.024 with a feeler gauge. Filter should be zero with gain at or around 2-4 this should get constitant readings. Also make sure you set the haltech to 120 tooth in the setup if the trigger is off the crank.

I ultimatly ended up going with a almumnuim disc with a s-4 sensor and 3 magnets. Haltech just seemed to not like that 60-2 wheel. Very finicky took me many hours to get right. Magents took 30 minutes.

good luck

also make sure you go with the right spark plug!!


Re: Motornic 60-2 rpm varies

Postby GVR41700 » Mon Jul 23, 2007 9:04 am

I went ahead and made the changes you suggested. It did help but I'm still having issues with the rpm signal. It seems to be ok between 1500 and 4000 rpm. However below 1500 the signal seems to breakup and above 4000 rpm the engine pops out the intake. I noticed that with the timing light at 1500 rpm that the timing on the engine is the same as that on the computer but as the rpms go up the timing on the engine starts to retard down to 14deg while the computer says 36deg. This is not under load just free reving. I have the reluctor lined up so the 11 tooth after the tdc tooth is on the crank sensor and set the tooth offset to 11 but the car barely runs this way (too much retarded timing) I had to set the tooth offset to 5 and the trigger angle to 85 from 70 to get the timing to sync with that of the computer with the timng locked at 10deg. I'm running TR5 spark plugs. Am I beating a dead horse here or do you have any other suggestions.



Postby Scott1600 » Mon Jul 23, 2007 2:55 pm

you may want to swap the trigger edge, or swap the 2 wires on the sensor. this could help with the timing retarding.


Re: .

Postby GVR41700 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 1:27 am

The wires on the sensor are black, white and bare. I believe the black is sensor ground, white sensor signal and the bare is shield. I will try switching them. I connected them with the sensor ground going to terminal B (trigger) and sensor signal going to terminal D (ground) and the bare going to a seperate ground on the chasis. I did this because of what I read in the instructions when it said to connect the posistive to a negative and vise versa. I'll try and switch the trigger edge first and then try switching the wires. Thanks for the advise.


Re: .

Postby GVR41700 » Tue Jul 24, 2007 5:34 am

I feel like I should start from scratch here because its just not working out. The trigger wheel from electromotive (60-2) should be set up so that the eleventh tooth after the part missing teeth is lined up so the falling part of it is on the center of the magnetic pickup and this eleventh tooth is crosses the magnetic pickup when the engine is at TDC. This is aprox 70 deg from the cyl 1 refrence on the wheel so the trigger angle I should start with is 70 deg and tooth offset is 11 with a tooth count of 120. This is how I started anyway. However with this set up the timing was way off, like more than 100deg's off. I went ahead and changed the wheel so that the sensor saw the eleventh tooth before the missing teeth. This meant that the sensor saw the cyl 1 refrence right at tdc. With that set up it ran alot beter but still not right. I tried switching the wires and switching the trigger edge and still no luck. I went ahead and repositioned the wheel the way electromotive and haltech say to put it but then the timing is way off and on back fires out the intake when I enble the injectors. I feel like I'm fighting a number of problems. Are there any links anyone can send me that better describe what I should do for this particular setup. 1984 Ford 2.3 turbo with MSD dist, locked timing, motronic 60-2 wheel with mag sensor running E6X. Dist phased and locked at 26deg BTDC.


Re: .

Postby THR RX7 » Wed Jul 25, 2007 12:12 pm

You actually have to use tooth offset 1, or even 0, since your TDC is actually at that 70 degree position, and the haltech doesnt have to wait to find it.

Try tooth offset 1 and see what happens.
Claudio RX-7
[email protected]
Dominican Republic
Tel. +1(809)763.0202
Tel. +1(678)810.0763


Re: .

Postby GVR41700 » Sat Jul 28, 2007 2:14 am

With a tooth offset of 1 or 0 how should I have the trigger wheel situtated on the crank pulley in relation to the sensor and TDC? Should I have it so that the section with the two missing teeth is lined up with the sensor when the motor is at TDC or should I put it back to the origianl setting where I had the trailing edge of the eleventh tooth lined up with the sensor when the engine is at TDC?


Re: .

Postby GVR41700 » Thu Aug 09, 2007 3:02 am

I think I finally got it. First I got rid of the electromotive sensor and got one made for a 1990 Volvo 240. I mounted this with a .020 gap on center with the 11 tooth after the missing teeth portion of the wheel. I then started with a tooth offset of 11 and trigger angle of 70. This ended up with alot of advance. I ended up adjusting the offset to 26 and the trigger angle to 73. I don't know if this was supposed to work but it did. I have a consistant RPM signal and the timining on the engine matches that of the computer. Now I just have to read the rest of the manual and tune this thing. The F3 computer it had was definitley alot easier to tune.


Re: .best is to use a digital hall effect sensor

Postby foggerhp » Tue Aug 28, 2007 11:58 pm

I ran into the same problem that you had. I had the 60 tooth motronic wheel and had no luck with the built in adaptor to switch the analog signal to digital. By trial and much error the absolute best sensor to use is one from dynapar. It is a 54ZT. This sensor is made for the job. I have had no problems since using this setup. Set the air gap at .020 and it has a small slot on the sensor that you keep in line with the wheel. This sensor is threaded and at 8500 RPM has no fluctuation at all.
Hopes this helps. The guys at haltech did no help on this issue.


ohh i see

Postby matt510 » Wed Aug 29, 2007 4:33 am

There are a couple of replacement sensors that yield good results (all of them have hall effect outputs directly from the sensor)...the 54zt is one of them, cherry makes a decent sensor as does honeywell that can all do the job. The thing you need to remember here is the output from these sensors is a driven digital output NOT an alanlog sinewave output which makes the signal itself far less susceptable to noise and corruption. This is why they are a much better choice for an aftermarket ECU.


Re: ohh i see

Postby ftjandra » Thu Aug 30, 2007 1:03 pm

-Honeywell recommends a minimum target thickness of 0.25" for its 1GT101DC sensor.
-Dynapar/Danaher recommends a minimum target thickness of 0.375" for its 54Z/T sensor.

Are they both known to work well with the Electromotive trigger wheels even though they are only 0.125" thick? <i>Edited by: ftjandra at: 8/30/07 1:04 pm

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