Hello all, its come to my attention that amazingly enough there are still plenty of E6S' out there still. Some of you might need some info on this particular model of ECU, mainly because it does fall a little short of its later versions, the E6K/X.
First thing you should know is that even though the ECU is mainly intended to process crank/cam signals in Hall Effect form, it can read internal reluctors. But! unlike the K and X, to change these settings to suit your particular sensors you need to move some jumpers and dip switches inside the ECU. I wont go into these details since this is explained in the E6S manual in good enough detail.
Second, the E6S could not fire regular OEM (constant charge) igniters, it could only control "smart" (constant duty) igniters, Bosch's 008 module, or most MSD and CDI boxes.
Third, the E6S did not have the PWM outputs that the K and X have, and if you swap your E6S ECU to one of these the harness doesnt have these wires so you would have to add these pins and run these extra wires separate. In contrast, if you are still using an E6S and need a brand new harness, you can purchase an E6X harness from you local haltech dealer and follow THESE INSTRUCTIONS in order to modify your X harness to suit the E6S. Also review THESE INSTRUCTIONS FOR DOS BOX to get DOS programs to work with XP or Vista machines. And finally, here on YOU TUBE you can find instructions on setting up USB to Serial adapters for both DOSBox with Vista, or normal XP and Vista machines with HalwinX.
Fouth, the E6S unit had an 8bit processor which was placed on a socket inside the ECU which if shaken too violently might come loose and cause the ECU to not work or work erratically. Also, the overall clock speed of the processor, which enough for most applications could sometimes be slightly taxed under certain conditions.
Fifth, the E6S ECU normally had 2 versions, E6S and E6S-8, if you have a -8 this just meant that you could control up to 8 low imp. injectors instead of 4. If you have high impedance injectors then you can run 8 with no problems. You could turn a regular E6S into a -8 by moving some more jumpers inside the ECU, again, this is detailed in the manual.
Sixth, finally, another suggestion i have for you E6S owners is that you also read the E6K manual, its much more informative in general aspects of how Haltech ECUs of that era work, but of course, the S manual has the specifics of the S and its inner working. Pay close attention in the manual to the section on the internal jumpers and dip switches that need to be set correctly in order for the ECU to work with your particular application. In most cases it can be made to work but sometimes will require changing some of those settings around as well as incorporating other hardware to make things work better.
In the end, you would probably be better of updating to a more modern ECU like the E8 or even the E6X which is more capable than the good 'ol E6S was.
It can do the job right, just be patient and ask the right questions.
Hope this helps. Enjoy!
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